Split

Split Split is Croatia's second largest city, after Zagreb, and the main point of arrival for visitors to Dalmatia. Unfortunately, in the past Split was regarded as a transit centre rather than a destination in itself, and consequently suffers from a dearth of good hotels and restaurants. However, if you do decide to stay, you'll undoubtedly be impressed by the extraordinary mix of the old and the new: magnificent ancient buildings, romantic cobbled back streets, lively open-air seaside cafes and a vibrant nightlife.

Peristyle

Peristyle At the south end of the square, immediately above the underground chambers exit, four columns mark the monumental arched gateway to the Vestibule, a domed space that served as the main entrance into Diocletian's private living quarters. To each side of the gate lies a 16th-century chapel: one now houses a small art gallery, and the other the Tourist Guide Service. At the opposite end of Peristil stands the small Renaissance Chapel of St Rocco from 1516, now the Tourist Information Centre.

Underground chambers

Underground chambersDiocletian used this vast space as a prison, "in which he cruelly confined the saints whom he tormented". Today, most of this labyrinth of vaulted underground halls remains closed except for special events such as craft fairs and concerts. However, through daylight hours the main passageway, lined with stalls selling handmade souvenirs, is kept open and leads directly onto Peristyle.

Croatia

Croatia Despite the hype, Croatia's pleasures are more timeless than trendy. Along its 1778km coastline, a glistening sea winds around rocky coves, lapping at pine-fringed beaches.